Day 56: Weekly massage

When you're this far from "home" you tend to fall into certain routines to help pass the time. Recently, I've added a weekly hour-long massage courtesy of a Russian and Dari speaking masseuse.

Last Thursday, my first visit, I told the young lady I liked hard massages. I just figured she'd have to work pretty, well, hard on me given her size. Anyway, about 40 minutes in I realized she took her work seriously. She must have put each of her 120 lbs into her elbows as she dug into my back.

I tried to suck it up, but eventually had to call off the beast --- begging for a little mercy. Today, day two, I requested a "medium" massage.

"Hi, do you have time for me now?" I asked, showing up a half hour early.

"You want now?" she replied.

"Yes, I pay now too," as I slid my money to her. "Oh, and this time I'd like a medium massage." I used my hands to demonstrate medium, between hard and soft.

"Medium," she replied with a slight grin.

"Yes," and for a second I wondered if she new she put the hurt to me last time.

Anyway, with the weather somewhere in the high 90s or low 100s, it was a nice 60-minute vacation of sorts. As with any other relationship, business or otherwise, it takes time to feel each other out. She, I think, now knows how to handle me -- but will learn even more in the future.

"Do you speak Russian," I asked her on the way out.

"Me Russian? Yes," she said.

Hmmm, she looked Chinese but spoke Dari and Russian. The world is an interesting place.

Day 49: Memories

An ANA soldier sits guard on packs that will be used by the new recruits for the day's activities. Select this photo for a closer look at what each soldier lugs around in 100-plus degree heat. (Photo by G. A. Volb)

Following a hard morning of work outs, the recruits head to "chow" where bread, muffins and other "goodies" await them -- all made in this facility. Select the photo for a closer look at the fires burning below. (Photo by G. A. Volb)

At 4:30 a.m. the recruits fell out for a nice 30-minute runn. Here an ANA instructor stands by, watch in hand, to track the recruits times. (Photo by G. A. Volb)

Back in 1983 I joined the USAF as a young college dropout. Having spent the better part of two years in the game room at my local state university, I had finally determined it was best to get a job and cut my losses. Either that or wait for the Dean to up the ante and move for dismissal as I was already on academic probation at the time.

I had "earned" a very unimpressive 2.00 GPA, with about half of my credits falling below the cutoff for transfer to any other university.

Anyway, the move was the right one though basic training was quite an interesting time of my life. I grew up a bit then and, this past week, had the opportunity to watch as young Afghans who made the same decision headed out for a day of basic training ANA style.

It was 4:30 a.m. when I arrived at the training camp ... the ANA was making their way out to the track for about 30 minutes of running. A good choice I thought given the 100 degree heat in the afternoon.

Anyway, the photography provided offers a few examples of what that training day looked like. Believe me, I wasn't missing any of it.

In a completely unrelated story, it was so hot here today I singed the bottoms of my feet on the steel walkway outside my piece of paradise.

Day 37: Seh Qaleh village delivery

Kan Mohamed, 52, and Mohamed Yosif, 70, tell me they'd like to see a new school built for the village. There are some 700 boys and 250 girls in the local area. (Photo by G. A. Volb)

Young girls look on as our team lays out clothes, shoes, food and medical supplies for the villagers. (Photo by G. A. Volb)

Faroq Ahmed, 20, keeps watch over the younger village children. (Photo by G. A. Volb)

Many of the children waited in the doorway of a nearby home. (Photo by G. A. Volb)

This one lonely goat stood guard over a new Mosque. (Photo by G. A. Volb)

Men of the village line up to get their share of the goods. (Photo by G. A. Volb)

A grave site just inside the village of Seh Qaleh with children playing in the background. (Photo by G. A. Volb)

There were many children of all ages at the village center when we arrived. (Photo by G. A. Volb)

The village of Seh Qaleh lies about 5 miles north of "home base" for us, just northeast of Kabul; we made the early-morning journey there via back roads filled with huge ruts and pits that had gray matter bouncing off the inside of skull.

Always on the lookout for the Talib (Taliban), or students, it took us about 30 minutes to arrive. We would have made it there earlier had it not been for a wrong turn into what one of the coalition troops told me later was a mine field. "Glad you told me after we left," I told him, as I'm sure I'd prefer not to know while driving through it.

The village is home to some 600 people, many of which were young children and all of whom seemed quite happy we arrived. The mission was to drop off food, clothes, shoes, school supplies and medical kits.

I had some time to talk with the village elder Kan Mohamed. At 52 he served as the spokesman for Seh Qaleh. He said he was "very happy for the visit." That he knew it was a long process, but knew we'd return. We had visited the village a month ago to determine what they needed. And this was the back end of that earlier visit.

Mohamed said he would like a school built too, which is a typical request and one we (the coalition) like to try to provide --- funds permitting. It's 100-plus degrees here now, so you're never too far from a bottle of water. As we left, I could see the kids doing what kids do ... playing soccer with the many balls we dropped off. It was another successful visit to help reach out to the local Afghans who, in the end, will decide if their adventure into democracy will succeed.

Day 30: We lose our first

Air Force Dr. (Capt.) Matt Hayes, a family doctor out of Charleston Air Force Base, S.C., looks on as Afghan National Army Dr. (Capt.) Sayed Zaman gives an eye exam to 18-year-old recruit Rahman Ullah, June 9 at the Kabul Military Training Center. Ullah is being in processed during day one of his journey into the ANA and is from Kunar Province. Zaman, 28, graduated from Kabul Medical University as a general practitioner, but received specialized training in optometry. Dr. Hayes is sharing his insight with a team of doctors at the ANA in processing facility to help improve the process. Hayes is serving an Army "in-lieu-of" tasking at Kabul Military Training Center and Camp Alamo as part of the Training Advisory Group. Stateside he's assigned to the 437th Medical Group. (Photo courtesy MPRI/G. A. Volb)

The 57 year old arrived in country a week after I did; last week he lost his life --- not in an insurgent related incident -- but due to a freak accident. Apparently, while overseeing the delivery of propane to one of the facilities nearby, a spark ignited a fire and then explosion of two delivery trucks. He was caught in the middle along with his Afghan translator ... it reminded us all of our own mortality. He was the first from our company to die here. He left behind a wife, children and grandchildren. I have yet to start a family.

The memorial service was held Saturday, attended by a cross-section of military members and company employees. For myself, and I presume most in attendance, the thought of "there but for the grace of God go I" passed through my mind. He was me, only caught in the wrong place at the wrong time. The fact is, you're never too sure of who is driving next to you. Or who is standing next to you on the streets -- should you venture out. Who is friend or foe. And should I meet a similar demise, it wouldn't come as a surprise to anyone here. It's the dice you roll each day you wake up for work. I'm quite impressed with how the average Afghan goes about their daily business.

Yet, I find myself looking for low-sitting vehicles weighed down by explosives. I study the faces in crowds looking for tell tale signs of their disdain for coalition troops. I look for those wearing a bit too much in the 100-plus degree heat to cover up the suicide vest they're strapped into. I tell myself a bit of paranoia is a good thing here.

But the mission continues. Slowly, by virtue of baby steps, the Afghan government is solidifying its power and extending its reach further and further from Kabul. Security is a must here first if the people are to experience democracy at its best.